In (Vintage) Chanel We Trust

Dear Sam,

Our days are filling up, but do we have any time left to hit one or two vintage shops (called friperies) to find that must-have Chanel purse or Givenchy dress? Paris has always been the world’s top closest, and I’d like to see some of her best and brighest pieces before we leave.

Some of the most well-known haute couture vintage shops are Didier Ludot and La Jolie Gard-Robe. The prices are big but so are the names. Think Yves Saint-Laurent, Chanel and Hermes. There is also Neila Vintage and Design. The owner gets a lot of her goods from France’s fashion elite. That store even showcases a piece from one of Coco Chanel’s last collections.

For more affordable high-end clothing, Thank God I’m A VIP seems to be a solid choice. Stupid name but killer clothes. Methinks, we should definitely visit it.

On the less expensive end of the scale, this blog talks up Coiffeur Vintage, a cool little place in Marais that is open Sundays. She also raves about a place called Fripes Star, which apparently is chock full of cheap, vintage dresses. This store is a sister store to Free P Star, a legendary and extremely busy vintage shop on Rue de la Verrerie.

Marais is also home to Vintage Clothing Paris. It sells lots of A-list clothes from all the greats, including Lagerfeld, Hermes and Yves St. Laurent.

Love,
Kat

Culture Vultures

Hi Kat,

Can’t wait to visit the Maille store and stock up on mustard. Sounds amazing. I think our next focus should be art galleries. I think our two biggies should be the Musee d’Orsay & Musee de L’Orangerie. However, if we have extra time, I would love to pop over and see the grounds of the Palais-Royal… if only to check out the juxtaposition between the modern art in the courtyard and the beautiful old buildings.

The Musee d’Orsay is supposed to be amazing and is chock full of art from the 19th and 20th century. Because it is housed in an old railway station, I think that will only add to the fun. I have also heard if you show your ticket from the Eurostar you can get a 2 for 1 deal. Sounds good to me.

The next one is definitely on the top of my list: The Musee de L’Orangerie. The top exhibits here are eight of Monet’s huge waterlily canvases called the Nymphéas (Water Lilies). They were painted in the artist’s garden at Giverny and donated to the French state. Monet stipulated that the monumental panels be displayed precisely as they are seen today, in twin oval rooms that surround enraptured viewers with his vision. Sounds like a great place to sit and unwind before we get back to our hectic schedule.

Good luck packing! Can’t wait to see both you and Lauren. Here’s to a month of fun and our big trip to PARIS.

Safe travels.

Love,
Sammy Lou xoxoxoxo

One-Hit Wonders

Dear Sam,

The thing I love about Europeans is that they’ve mastered the art of opening shops that specialize in doing one thing really, really well. Paris is home to many of these wonderful little gems, including umbrella repair shops (some of the last in the world). Here is my short list of places we should try to visit.

1) Boutique Maille

My tennis pal Tanis raves this is the best mustard she’s ever had. While you can find Maille in any grocery store in the world, they save their best stuff for their two French stores in Paris and Dijon. The cooliest part: The preservative-free mustard is served on tap just like beer. Never older than 10 days when it is sold, it can last up to three months. Customers can buy ceramic pots to transport their mustard (which is available in dozens of flavours, including Chablis). Sounds like a yummy keepsake. The Paris shop, which is located in the 8th arrondissement, isn’t open on Sundays.

2) E. Dehillerin

This cramped store has been selling kitchenware to professional and amateur chefs since 1820. Famous for their copper pots, they also sell everything from crepe pans to pastry scrapers to Eiffel Tower cookie cutters. Julie Child was a regular here when she lived in Paris.

3) A L’Etoile D’Or

Located near the Sacre Coeur, this candy/chocolate shop would make Willy Wonka proud. Food blogger David Lebovitz, a man who knows sweets, hearts it. He even uploaded a video tour. Others report it is like walking into a fairy tale. Even by Paris standards, the owner Denise Acabo is considered to be quite the character. I want to try the Bernachon chocolate (she’s the only person outside of Lyon that is allowed to sell the stuff) and Henri le Roux’s Caramel Beurre Salé, salted butter caramels from Brittany. Mmmmm…salted butter caramels.

That’s it for now. Miss you lots.

Love,
Kat

P.S. I booked Le Meurice for Saturday. We need to be there at 7 a.m. I don’t think I’ve ever had to get dressed up for breakfast before:)

Sunset Cruise Down The Seine

Hi Kat,

I am very excited about all the potential restaurant options that we have listed. One way or another we are going to have a very memorable meal together in Paris.  Can’t wait to see which restaurant is the preferred choice (my vote is still Spring).

On another note, I have found something for us to possibly check out if we have time. I found this little tidbit when I was recently reading Vogue (as you do). Vanessa Paradis (the famous French model/actress) lists a cruise down the Seine on a legendary Bateaux Parisien boat as one of her favourite things to do in Paris. Upon further investigation, the best place & time to depart is 9 p.m. at the foot of the Eiffel Tower.  It’s an hour ride that will no doubt allow us to see a gorgeous sunset and glorious sites. However, I think the crowning glory will be the sparkling light display that will be illuminating the night air when we arrive back to the Eiffel Tower (in the evening there is a light show every hour on the hour). I can’t think of a better way to see the City of Light (La Ville-lumière).

What do you think? I know that we wanted to spend Friday night in Montmartre, but I am thinking this might be another good option.

Talk soon,
Sammy Lou xoxoxo

Our Big Decision

Kat’s Top Three Picks

Dear Sam,

Here are my top three restaurant picks for Saturday night. It’s a shortened version because the original post I put up over the weekend was accidentially trashed. Boo!

I know you’ve already made a reservation at Spring (better safe than sorry), but please consider these:

1) L’Astrance

This place is tiny. Eight tables to be exact, but it’s drawing big crowds with its pricey but modern French cuisine. It opened in 2000 and quickly earned its first Michelin star that year. L’Astrance now has three. It’s also made this famous list. Food bloggers and writers, obviously with deep pockets, rave about the place (here, here and here).

2) Le Galopin

We want to go here if we’re interested in seeing what the City of Light’s up-and-coming chefs are doing. Run by Romain Tischenko, winner of Top Chef France 2010, Le Galopin is located in the 10th arrondissement. However, all the reviews I’ve read say the market-inspired menu is worth the trip. This blog rarely slings out high marks so a B+ is a good grade.

3) Les Papilles

If we don’t go here for Saturday dinner, we should at least hit Les Papilles for lunch. David Lebovitz, one of my favourite food bloggers, raves about this place. A wine shop/bistro, Les Papilles is definitely not fancy but the food, served family style, is supposed to be incredible. The chef, Bertrand Bluy, learned his trade cooking in some of France’s most elite restaurants. Like Le Galopin, this bistro also won’t break the bank.

Miss you lots.

Yours,
Kat

P.S. The Ritz Paris is going to be a gong show when we are there. It’s the last weekend it will be open before it is shuttered for renos. It doesn’t help that Vogue just ran a big feature on the famous hotel. Le sigh…

Petit Dejeuner At The Hotel Of Kings

Dear Sam,

All of those restaurants look amazing, but I’m leaning towards Spring. I will finish up my list and get it to you A.S.A.P.

In the meantime, I think I found a place we can hit for breakfast on Saturday morning: Le Meurice. The Michelin three-star restaurant is located in the ornate Hotel Meurice. Located across from the Tuileries Garden, the hotel, nicknamed The Hotel of Kings, was recently featured in Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris. We could never afford dinner there but breakfast is doable. And I predict it would be one that we’ll never forget.

The opulent 17th century “grand siècle” style decor of the restaurant was revamped by Philippe Starck in 2007. The designer said he was inspired by the Salon de la Paix at Chateau de Versailles. It looks deliciously over the top and so does the breakfast menu (i.e. 50 grams of Beluga caviar will set you back 680 euros). However, they have three set breakfast options that range in price from 40-72 euros. We can also order a la carte, including a selection of pastries for 14 euros. That might be the way to go. They serve breakfast from 7-11 a.m. on weekends, so I suggest we head there quite early to start our day in grand Paris style.

Yours,
Kat

Saturday Night Dinner…Oh The Pressure

Hi Kat,

So after combing through every book, every article and every blog ever written on the subject I have come up with my top three restaurant picks for our Saturday night meal in Paris. Here’s the deal: we will both pick 3 and then narrow it down from there. Stress!!!

1) Spring

I think this might be my favourite pick. Just the right mix of amazing reviews, fantastic food, cool vibe and fabulous location (right next to the Louvre).

There is no menu. Just a set four-course dinner that changes daily depending on what Daniel Rose (chef/owner) finds at the market. You have to arrive by 8.30 p.m. because everyone gets served at the same time. Dinner could begin with heirloom tomatoes with vinegared sardines then move to sole poached in broth with chanterelles, rare roasted pigeon with almond and cauliflower puree, and macerated cherries with toasted brioche. It’s the closest a restaurant experience can get to dining in someone’s Parisian pied-à-terre.

**If we want to eat here we will have to make a reso stat.

http://parisbymouth.com/our-guide-to-paris-spring-restaurant/

http://www.springparis.fr/

2) Maison Blanche

This place is all about the view and the food isn’t bad either.

On the food side of things I don’t think it would be as good as Spring, but due to the gorgeous views of the Eiffel Tower I think that could be forgiven.

http://www.maison-blanche.fr/en/index.html

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d719569-Reviews-Maison_Blanche-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

3) La Fidelite

I found this restaurant in my cool guide to Paris. It’s an original brasserie that draws in tons of celebs. It might be a great alternative if we can’t get into our first choices. Take a peek.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d1480513-Reviews-La_Fidelite-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

Ok, so there they are (with my blood, sweat and tears included)

I wish I could have included Frenchie, but it isn’t open on Saturdays. Le sigh.

(Fletcher, when you go to Paris in June you will have to check this place out. It looks amazing!!!)

http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2011/07/frenchie-wine-bar-paris-france/

Keep me posted on what you think.

Love Sammy xoxoxo

Putting On The Ritz

Dear Sam,

I know we want to keep the Hemingway haunts to a minimum during our trip, but we must, must, must head to the legendary Bar Hemingway at the Hotel Ritz Paris. Located at the Place Vendome, I’ve always wanted to check it out (we’ll make it there just in time; the hotel is closing this June for renovations).

Tucked in a small corner of the Ritz, Hemingway’s was reputed to be Papa’s favourite watering hole in Paris (no small feat). He even famously “liberated” it at the end of World War II. The hotel later re-named the bar in his honour.

Drinks aren’t cheap (about 30 euros each; gulp!). But once you order one, you are entitled to use their special mailroom services. Yes, mailroom services! You can even borrow one of their vintage typewritters. After you’ve written the letter (no texts or emails here), you hand it to the bar staff, and they keep it until it’s collected. The bar has been providing this service for patrons since the 1940s. I propose we drop by Hemingway’s late Saturday night (closing time is 2 a.m.) and pen letters to our daughters, Mimi and Lauren. They can pick them up on their first trip to the City of Light.

You can even receive outside mail here. The mailing address is:

<Your name>
Bar Hemingway
Ritz Paris
15, Place Vendome, 75001 Paris

In an age of instant communication, nothing beats an old-fashioned letter. Miss you lots.

Yours,
Kat

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A Moveable Feast

Hi Katherine,

My food investigation is in full swing and the next stop on our adventure is inspired by one of our favourite books, “A Moveable Feast” by Ernest Hemingway. To help in my search, I found a great link that outlines Hemingway’s Paris with all his favourite haunts. http://www.frugalfun.com/hemingwayparis.html

The good news: most of the places that he frequented are still in business. The bad news: most, if not all, are terrible tourist traps (overpriced and sub standard food). All but one… I present Closerie des lilas in Montparnasse. Open since 1847, it was a favourite hang out for Hemingway and James Joyce. Another big draw is that it is right across from Jardin du Luxembourg. I think a definite stop is in order not only for a poke around but for a plate of oysters and a glass of bubbly.
Love, Sammy
P.S. Agreed about the Eiffel Tower. Not interested in waiting in line to get to the top and not see what I came to Paris to see. Yes, I am a geek.